Yunnan Part 1: From Kunming to the Terraced Skies of Yuanyang

A trip to Yunnan with kids—or just a sense of adventure? We kicked off our journey in Kunming and made our way through charming towns, flavorful street food, and breathtaking mountain views. Whether you're into culture, nature, or simply chasing good snacks, this family-friendly route from Kunming to Yuanyang is packed with inspiration.

Morning light spills across the layered rice terraces of Yuanyang. Nestled among the hills, traditional Hani-style houses with thatched mushroom roofs cluster together, surrounded by misty mountains and rows of hand-carved fields. This was the view that greeted us—our first glimpse of the harmony between people and landscape that defines Yunnan's magic.

📍 Trip Itinerary Overview

🗓️ Duration

• Kunming: 4 nights / 3 days
• Jianshui: 3 nights / 2 days
• Yuanyang: 2 nights / 1 day
  

🍜 Local Food Highlights

• Kunming: Bamboo worms, crispy beef pancakes, tanghulu
• Jianshui: Grilled tofu, beef with skin stew, yacai mixian, fresh blueberries
• Yuanyang: BBQ free range chicken

🧭 What You'll Find in This Guide

• Kunming: Peacocks, Pet Markets, and a Bug Feast
• Jianshui: Wells, Wisdom, and Tofu Tales
• Yuanyang: Mountains, Mornings, and Miracles

Kunming: Peacocks, Pet Markets, and a Bug Feast

If you're searching for the best things to do in Kunming with kids or planning a relaxing family-friendly itinerary in Yunnan, this part of the trip offers the perfect mix of fun and discovery.

We began our adventure in Kunming, the capital city of Yunnan, where we spent three relaxing, kid-friendly days. It was also a practical starting point—Kunming offers more direct flights to destinations across Yunnan, making it a convenient hub for planning the rest of our journey.

Family Fun at Kunming Zoo

Our first stop: Kunming Zoo. Located within Yuantong Mountain Park, this spacious zoo is ideal for families with children. It features diverse animals such as tigers, giraffes, and a wide variety of monkeys. The highlight? A stunning peacock garden and a glass-walled enclosure where you can get surprisingly close to big cats. The park also offers paddle boats and shaded paths perfect for an unhurried stroll.

A fun day at Kunming Zoo— big smiles all around.

Exploring the Kunming Flower and Bird Market

Next up, we explored the Kunming Flower and Bird Market, the largest of its kind in Yunnan. This bustling market is a sensory feast where you'll find everything from vibrant orchids and bonsai trees to exotic animals like hedgehogs, koi fish, and even “panda dogs”—adorable pups dyed (or maybe naturally patterned—we couldn’t quite tell!) to look like pandas. Our daughter loved it so much, we returned the next day. It's a must-visit for families: colorful, chaotic, and absolutely captivating.

Scenes from the colorful Kunming Flower and Bird Market—a wonderland for kids and animal lovers alike. Vibrant aquariums, sleepy hedgehogs, a panda-lookalike pup, and even a cat lounging in a doll bed filled the aisles with surprises. Our daughter was enchanted—and honestly, so were we.

A Fun Stop in Dianchi (Haigeng Park )

En route to our next destination, we made a quick stop at Dianchi. Though brief, it was memorable—we munched on crispy beef pancakes and tanghulu (candied hawthorn skewers) while feeding seagulls by the lake. 

Trying a Local Delicacy: The Bug Feast

Before leaving Kunming, we dared to try something a little wild: a bug feast. At a local restaurant called Kunchong Guozi, we sampled bamboo worms, silkworms, and crickets. Surprisingly, the bamboo worms were crispy, buttery, and utterly addictive.

Crunchy, buttery, and surprisingly addictive—bamboo worms (the middle dish) are a local Yunnan delicacy. Our little one didn’t hesitate to dig in. Yummy bugs, indeed!

Due to time constraints, we skipped Stone Forest and other famous sites—but Kunming still gave us a memorable and diverse introduction to Yunnan, setting the tone for the rest of our trip.

Quick Tips for Visiting Kunming

• Visit the Flower and Bird Market in the morning when it's cooler, less crowded, and the stalls are fully stocked.
• Kunming Zoo is stroller-friendly and easy to explore in a few hours.
• Local bug feast is fun for adventurous eaters—bamboo worms are tastier than you might expect!
• Stop by Canghai and bring a little food to feed the seagulls—kids will love it, and it makes the break extra fun.

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Jianshui: Wells, Wisdom, and Tofu Tales

Looking for a quiet cultural town in Yunnan with unique food and historical charm? Jianshui is one of the most underrated destinations in Yunnan and makes a perfect two-day stop for history buffs and food lovers alike.

Here is our next stop: Jianshui, a historic town known for its ancient wells and peaceful charm.

Evening Charm at the Dabanjing Well

As we strolled the old streets, we visited several ancient wells, including the famous Dabanjing Well, still in use today. Locals collect water from it to make traditional dishes like tofu, which perhaps explains the uniquely delicious flavor. A tip for fellow travelers: visit in the evening—under the glow of lanterns and soft lights, the well and surrounding streets transform into something truly magical.

Exploring Jianshui’s ancient wells—each one with its own charm. The glowing blue water on the right is Dabanjing Well at night, still used by locals today.

A Ride Through the Countryside: Jianshui Train

A highlight of our visit was the Jianshui Train, a charming narrow-gauge railway that took us past picturesque rice fields, curious ducks, and grazing water buffalo. One of the stops included the Double Dragon Bridge, a 17-arch stone bridge that's over 100 years old and offers stunning countryside views. We also passed strawberry farms where families can pick their own berries—an unexpected treat.

All aboard the Jianshui train! A slow ride through the countryside brought us past water buffalo, rice fields, and the stunning Double Dragon Bridge—where ancient arches meet curious eyes and little feet.

Walking Through History: Exam Halls and Temples

The next day in the ancient city, we explored the National Examination Site of Xuezheng from the Ming and Qing Dynasties and the Confucius Temple, the second-largest of its kind in China. While these sites are rich in history and cultural importance, the Confucius Temple in particular didn't quite capture the kids' attention—ours were far more enthusiastic about munching on tanghulu as we walked. Still, I was genuinely moved to learn that China was the birthplace of the national examination system. Sharing that moment with my daughter felt meaningful—it was a chance to connect with our heritage and help her feel proud of China's deep historical roots.

An evening stroll through Jianshui’s ancient streets led us back in time—to imperial exam halls.

We skipped the Zhujia Garden afterward due to sheer exhaustion (traveling with two little ones is no small feat), but Jianshui left a lasting impression.

What to Eat in Jianshui

Searching for must-try foods in Yunnan? Jianshui is a hidden gem for local specialties—from grilled tofu to yacai mixian—that showcase the bold, earthy flavors of southern Yunnan.

Jianshui is famous for its grilled tofu, a must-try local specialty. There are two main types: a firm, slightly fermented tofu with a chewy bite, and baojiang tofu, which is soft and tender inside with a lightly crisped exterior when grilled. Locals gather around small communal grills—often shared with strangers—where you prepare your tofu and dip it in your own customized sauce mix. We were unsure at first, but a friendly local helped us out. The result? Rich, smoky flavor and a fun, memorable experience we enjoyed so much that we went back for it the next day.

We also tried beef with skin stew, hearty and deeply flavorful, and a local specialty called yacai mixian—a noodle dish made with a regional pickled vegetable (Yacai, related to mustard greens and sometimes compared to bamboo shoots in taste). We didn't snap photos—two toddlers at breakfast saw to that—but trust me, it was worth the mess. And the local blueberries? Sweet, fresh, and only 20 yuan per kilo. A feast. Yunnan has increasingly become a hub for blueberry production thanks to its high altitudes, mild climate, and abundant sunshine—ideal conditions for cultivating sweet and juicy berries. So if you're visiting during the harvest season, don't miss the chance to enjoy these regional gems straight from the source.

Jianshui tastes like grilled tofu, blueberry feasts, and sticky-sweet tanghulu on a train ride. Messy mouths, happy hearts, and flavors we won’t forget.

Quick Tips for Visiting Jianshui

• Take the Jianshui train early in the day to enjoy cooler weather and better light.
• Visit Dabanjing Well after sunset—lanterns and soft lighting make it extra beautiful.
• Not sure how to grill your tofu? Don’t worry—just ask. Locals are friendly and happy to help.

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Yuanyang: Mountains, Mornings, and Miracles

If you're chasing the best sunrise views in Yunnan or planning a visit to the famous Hani rice terraces, Yuanyang is a magical destination not to miss.

A Scenic Drive into the Mountains

From Jianshui, we continued to the most stunning stop of this part of our trip: the Yuanyang Rice Terraces.

The drive itself was a joy—winding roads, misty mountains, and sudden panoramas that make you pause for a deep breath. If you're planning a Yunnan road trip, this scenic route from Jianshui to Yuanyang offers some of the best mountain views in southern China. Here, generations of farmers have worked with nature to create something beautiful. These terraces are carved into the mountainsides by the Hani people over generations and are still actively farmed.

Waking Up with a View: Staying Beside the Terraces

We stayed in an Airbnb-style guesthouse right beside the terraces, where we could literally watch the sunrise from our bed. The view was so breathtaking, we changed our plans and extended our stay. The fields were just steps away, and we spent time walking through them and soaking in the views up close. One fun activity? Dressing up in traditional Hani minority clothing—available for free at guesthouse—for a photo shoot in the fields. It added a playful cultural touch to our experience and made for some of our favorite travel photos.

Yuanyang highlights: an evening feast of fire-grilled free-range chicken, cozy moments by the hearth, and morning strolls through rice terraces in Hani-style dress. Our guesthouse offered a peaceful front-row seat to the sunrise—and a stay we didn’t want to end.

A Quiet Gem: Visiting Ake Village

Under the owner’s recommendation, we explored Ake Village, an authentic Hani village with traditional mushroom-shaped houses and terraced views. While we also visited a popular paid viewing point for sunrise, we found that the view from our guesthouse was even better—and far more peaceful. We could walk straight into the fields and enjoy the scenery at our own pace.

Still, the serenity and scale of the terraces are unforgettable.

Golden sunrises, misty fields, and quiet moments above the terraces of Yuanyang.

Yuanyang is not just a destination—it's a chance to slow down. Sip a warm drink, take in the layered mountain views, and reflect on how people have shaped the land into something truly beautiful.

Quick Tips for Visiting Yuanyang

• Choose a guesthouse with terrace views -- watch the sunrise from your guesthouse for a quieter and equally beautiful view—and save 70 yuan.
• Terraces look stunning from afar but can be muddy and full of mosquitoes up close—wear long sleeves and bring insect repellent.
• Ake Village is quieter than major tourist spots and offers a deeper cultural experience.

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This part of our Yunnan journey gave us a taste of everything—family-friendly adventures, rich cultural history, and breathtaking natural landscapes. From feeding seagulls in Kunming to dressing up in Hani clothing among the rice terraces, every stop was filled with surprises and meaning.

Next stop? Xishuangbanna, where tropical forests, elephants, and Dai culture await. But first, one last handful of sweet blueberries from the market in Jianshui.